Go West, White Man

Brenu Beach: Come for the beach, stay for the lobster.

Obligatory shot of Elmina Castle and the lagoon.

One can visit Ghana, see the garbage-strewn beaches and think that is all there is to see of the coast. However, the further you travels from the capital, the more impressed you become. The journey started at the least auspicious time of the least auspicious day of the week in Ghana (Sunday 10AM: nary a vehicle on the road). Passing by the usual hangouts of Bojo Beach, Kokrobite and Tills, the group ventured beyond the road well-traveled by obrunis. For the most part, the Accra-Takoradi road is well-maintained and not particularly daunting, as long as you don't mind letting the occasional bat-out-of-hell tro-tro overtake you while passing the occasional loaded-down, smoke belching one yourself.

Given the majority of tourists were aged under 3 or around 60, the group stopped for the first night a little past Cape Coast and Elmina at Brenu Beach Lodge. It was a handsome place on a palm-fringed beach, but was lacking character, as if one could be on a tropical beach anywhere. On the downside, the AC wasn't working and the evening was a bit toasty; on the upside, the fresh lobster was great.

Elmina: passing the Dutch hall on the left-hand side.

The next day, Mr. O and parents drove into Elmina, a fishing town dominated (once literally) by St. George's Castle. Owned by the Portuguese, then Dutch, then British, its major purpose was for trading, primarily slaves. In spite of this, a rather nondescript group called Ghana Ecotours provides tours not of the castle, but of the deeply historical town that routinely gets overlooked by conservative tourists. The fact- and philosophy-filled walking tour featured 18th and 19th century homes, colourful posubans of Asafo companies (hard to explain, but here's a crack at it), a cemetery and ended with a walk up to the hilltop Fort Coenraadsburg, all with maximum information and enthusiasm, but zero hassle. It was hands-down the best tour Mr. O had taken in two stays in Ghana.

At the hilltop fort with our guide (and fish market, saltponds).

Moving on, the group proceeded to their ultimate point, the West Coast beyond Takoradi. For those who experience the nondescript and garbage-strewn beaches around Accra, the West Coast is practically magical. Although the Gulf of Guinea current is still dangerously rough, the beaches are pristine and sparsely populated. The group settled on the Hideout at Butre Beach. It was aptly named: it required a half-hour of driving down rough palm oil plantation roads and beach trails, following the occasional sign and passing the occasional village. The Toyota's 4WD capabilities were thoroughly tested. The Hideout is at the end of the road next to a fishing village and one could easily go there and not be found (several Jimmy Hoffa jokes were made). It was supremely chilled out: private huts with fan and mosquito nets, beachside cabanas and delicious meals and cocktails. Unfortunately, turtle nesting season had passed (see you next year), but canoe tours of the nearby mangroves were patronized - the group observed plenty of colourful birds and the occasional hawk and water monitor ("crocodile", according to locals). Nearby Fanta's Folly was also observed and looked like a winner as well. Apparently they will pick up guests who fly in to Takoradi from Accra - saving several hours of driving.

Butre Beach: nary a person or piece of rubbish in sight.

A day trip to nearby Busua Beach was taken for Mr. O's most anticipated activity in Ghana: surfing. The Black Star Surf Shop is the first of its kind in Ghana and has spearheaded the nascent surf scene in Ghana. Busua's conditions were near-perfect for beginners: even at high tide, one needs only wade a short distance with the board to catch a steady wave, leaving most energy for catching and riding rather than paddling. Mr. O took an afternoon lesson with patient instructor Peter and was up on the board in no time. Mr. O has vowed that this will not be the last trip to Busua. He is not alone: the town itself is starting to heat up as a backpacker hangout and even has a classy hotel for those not fond of mosquito nets.

Up the river from Butre village in the deep dark mangrove.

Busua Beach: physical proof that Mr. O can hang ten.

On the return trip, the group missed their intended stopover at Blue Diamond near Saltpond and ended up staying the night at Tills No. 1 Beach Hotel. The place makes for a great day trip from Accra, as the beach is nice for the area, there's shade in the palm trees and the food is good. 15 years ago, it was probably quite grand, but now is a bit of faded glory: the sprawling grounds need more upkeep than they can handle (although Little Miss had a fantastic time exploring the place) and the accommodations were a bit disappointing: the water was out (it happens everywhere) and the A/C in Mr. and Mrs. O's room was not functioning. In spite of this, the next day they still received a hefty bill with no slack and instead promised better "next time" (which was extremely presumptuous). Lesson learned: stick to day trips.

Regardless, it was great to rediscover the West Coast. Mr. O had fond memories of the area and spent the preceding six months trying to convince Mrs. O that there is something far better than the garbage-strewn beaches of Greater Accra and that it was worth the travel. Next time, a flight to Takoradi would be relatively cheap and quick alternative. Hopefully they can convince their friends to make an excursion in the near future...