Friday, August 29, 2014

A Year Later, Chale

High Street abuzz with obrunis and bibinis.
This past weekend the family went for a little street art at the Chale Wote festival in James Town, one of the oldest parts of Accra. The whole family piled in and brought friends with them - apparently Mr. and Mrs. O have the reputation of being somewhat adventurous and pathfinding for the expat set.

Some of the pop-up murals produced during the weekend.
The festival did not disappoint: it is put on for Ghanaians, by Ghanaians and shows not only the rich heritage and culture of the Ga people (Accra's original inhabitants) but also the creativity and forward thinking artistry that exists in the city. Visitors were treated to art installation after art installation on the theme of Death: An Eternal Dream Into Limitless Rebirth. From colourful murals to funeral processions, the festival was a feast for the eyes.

Why yes, that is a wall of sewage on the cliffside.
Also, as a slum, James Town is also a feast for the nose: sanitation is a massive problem in the area and some of the wayward detritus washing up on Ghana's beaches originates from this part of town. Newly-arrived friends were quite taken aback by the smells, but after being in Accra for such a long time, the family is so much at home that they have simply stopped noticing when it gets funky. 

In any case, a short visit to see friends producing artistic Bolga baskets turned into a day exploring the area and taking in the experience. Part of that experience was Little Miss getting regularly mobbed by James Town children (and sometimes adults) who were constantly touching her skin and hair. It is unclear what they expected, but perhaps there could be a Touch The Obruni installation next year? Little Miss, although quite shy, was a good sport and did have fun playing with Ghanaians when not overwhelmed. Kids, of course, can be kids.
Funeral procession of plastic waste.

Little Miss makes a friend.














If any of this rings any bells to readers, this is indeed not the first time that the family has been to this annual festival. In fact, last weekend was their one-year anniversary in Ghana.

In addition to not noticing the smells and minding the mobs of children, Mr. and Mrs. O have noticed that they have indeed been feeling "at home" lately. Things have become routine, but never dull. While the travel has slowed down somewhat, going out at night with friends is a more common occurrence and they are starting to know "the scene" in Accra. Mr. O was particularly excited in the run-up to Chale Wote, knowing some of the artists and anticipating the excitement of the festival. If all goes well, the family might even be around for Chale Wote 2015 - and is already counting the days.

Flamenco dancing.
Bolga Baskets reimagined.






"Social Reality" by Ibrahim Mahama


Life and Death in full colour.





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