The Great Guinea Fowl Debate

Artist's rendition of a Numida meleagris in its pre-cooked state.

Who makes the best guinea fowl in Ghana?

There are many debates in Ghana: Christianity vs Islam, NDC vs NPP, Chelsea vs Manchester United. However, Mr. O's office has been gripped by another passionate debate that cuts across the lines of class, ethnicity and geography - and it has been all about guinea fowl.

The humble guinea fowl is a strange bird. It is the size of a chicken, but with the colouring of a turkey and with very puffy feathers. The guinea fowl is actually quite picturesque, perhaps even poetic.  It is wily, but is very clean and can even fly short distances.

Most importantly in Ghana, it is easy to raise and is delicious. Again, similar to chicken, but a bit smaller and gamier - still, it is delicious if prepared right. Its eggs are tasty as well. In the North, one can find it easily, as it is a standard part of the local diet for those who can afford. Harder to find in the south, air travelers can actually buy frozen whole birds to bring on the plane in a special bag, like duty free liquor.

On a recent work trip to Northern Ghana, Mr. O decided to wade into the debate with a taste testing. Here are the results of his adventure:

Mba Yahaya, Tamale -  A local institution in the largest city in the North, this guinea fowl is very well-prepared, with tangy seasoning and complemented with sliced onions, green pepper and carrots. The meat was soft and moist.

They should consider franchising.

Saal Kaa Winne, Zebilla - This roadside stand in the Upper East serves it fried, but still tasty and moist, although a bit chewier. It came with fried yam chips in a little bag with a spoonful of suya spice thrown in, which made it almost a cousin to chicken and chips.

The Bird is the Word in Zebilla.

Comme Çi, Comme Ça, Bolgatanga - A sleepy restaurant with indifferent staff, this place has a secret weapon: Ghana's only guinea fowl pizza. Already good as a pizza, with shredded guinea fowl, onions and green pepper, it came together excellently and it is highly recommended - but not on the menu, so ask the chef.

Coming soon to a hipster bistro near you.

Insha Allahu, Navrongo - This was found on a tip from a well-traveled friend. This roadside stand on the main strip roasts the guinea fowl from head to toe and serves the whole thing chopped with a machete. There is a bar across the street called Jubilee Spot that will let you eat it there and wash it down with a cold beverage. The fowl was tender, the spices excellent (almost like a dry rub) and the whole thing was just perfect. This might be the best guinea fowl in Ghana.

It's all about the Chief's Secret Recipe.

Regardless, Mr. O's report has not satisfied all of his colleagues and perhaps his methodology was less than scientific. And who is an obruni to tell Ghanaians what is their best food? In the end, this is a debate that will rage on for many years to come. But don't take his word for it: give it a try - and don't spare the suya.